Baron Knyphausen:
der Jahrgang 2009 auf dem Prüfstand
Kim Marcus, Bruce Sanderson | Wine Spectator April 2011
Baron Knyphausen | Erbacher Steinmorgen Erste Lage
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In the Rheingau, respected wineries Schloss Johannisberger, Baron zu Knyphausen, Schloss Schonborn and Robert Weil all made classic-rated 2009s. As with the top Mosel producers, qualitity is generally high across the range of bottlings these producers make, so you can pick among their many offerings and be assured to find a memorable Riesling. (april 30, 2011 . wine spectator ) » schließen
Robert Parker | Wine Advocate Januar 2011
Resumée von David Schildknecht » lesen
Gerko zu Knyphausen has acquired a new partner (holding a 50% share) who will assist in management and marketing. When this new investment funds director Wolfgang Frank informed me – employing the allegedly Burgundian classificatory language now so fashionable among German vintners – that the estates portfolio had been significantly restructured, I was to say the least skeptical. Naturally, though, of paramount importance is the quality of whatever is put into bottle (and the Knyphausen estate had registered a few disappointing recent collections). What I found when I visited in November was Knyphausen and long-time vineyard and cellar manager Rainer Ruttiger very much at their posts; a revision of the wine line-up that incorporated rather bold and in my opinion largely laudable stylistic innovations; and the most exciting collection I can recall at this address in nearly two decades. Its obvious from my conversations with the team that renewed rigor in vine management has been contributory to improved quality, and whatever combination of renewed inspiration and fiscal freedom has further impacted this years performance, here’s hoping that it continues! — David Schildknecht » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Spatburgunder Trocken
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“Tart-edged cherry tinged with peaty smokiness, cherry pit piquancy, and bittersweet toastiness of walnut and almond oil make for a succulent and attractive Knyphausen 2009 Spatburgunder trocken that ought to perform well for several years. The tank-elevage here was supplemented by a few barriques, but a dedicated (so-called “Breborn”) bottling from a single new barrique was stripped of textural appeal, fruit, and charm.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Charta Riesling Kabinett
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“Originating in the Michelmark, Knyphausens 2009 Riesling Kabinett Charta features peach and musk melon in a polished, juicy, very ripe – and, at 13% alcohol relatively full and arguably un-Kabinett-like – performance. Legally trocken, with its suggestions of fruit kernel bitterness well-woven into an ample and satisfyingly fine-grained palate, this finishes with good length if without much complexity or enticement.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Hattenheimer Riesling Kabinett
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“Originating in the Rheingarten vineyard (which is curiously divided between the shoreline and an island, though these grapes grow on the former) Knyphausens 2009 Hattenheimer Riesling Kabinett offers delicious scents and juicy persistence of fresh pear and mirabelle mingled with nut oils and smoky black tea. Saline, sweet suggestions of lobster shell-reduction add mouthwatering savor to a satisfyingly persistent finish and 22 grams of residual sugar here (a level, however judicious and appropriate it is, which one seldom encounters in contemporary Rhine Riesling) remains supportive but unobtrusive. I would expect this to perform well for the better part of a decade. (A much sweeter generic Knyphausen Kabinett dubbed -Baron K- incidentally, was clearly not fashioned from material of a quality comparable to the rest of the present collection).” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling
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“Although labeled without Pradikat in keeping with the new approach here to the top single vineyard wines, the Knyphausen 2009 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling is (at 29 grams residual sugar) unabashedly sweet. It was vinified in part in cask (most of the wines at this address having long been raised in tank). Maraschino, vanilla, and pistachio extract, offer striking scents; then inform a creamy, subtly oily palate, acquiring counterpoint from cherry pit and brown spices. A bittersweetly lingering finish manages (like that of its Marcobrunn counterpart) to sooth even if it does not especially refresh or uplift. I would look for at least 6-8 years of satisfaction here, but not be too surprised (and of course be delighted) if it turned out to be a longer keeper. Enough has changed at this estate with 2009 – although I am primarily pleased by the changes – for me to wish to remain very cautious in prognostications of longevity.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Auslese
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“Hyacinth, candied lime rind, strawberry jam, distilled herbal essences, and pear drops on the nose of the Knyphausen 2009 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Auslese are further reflected on a silken-textured palate of confectionary sweetness but impressive multidimensionality, incorporating a welcome streak of saliva-inducing salinity as well as alkaline, crushed stone, and subtly smoky mineral adjuncts. The red fruit and citrus candy elements here put me somewhat in mind of an Auslese from the Urziger Wurzgarten. There is a refinement and clarity to the manner in which the multiple skeins of flavor stand out as well as dynamically interact in this wines long albeit extremely sweet finish that I cannot recall in any previous nobly sweet Knyphausen wine. It should be worth following for 35 or more years and will almost certainly become even more impressive in the process.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Kiedricher Sandgrub Riesling
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“Like this estates Hattenheimer Kabinett of the vintage, the Knyphausen 2009 Kiedricher Sandgrub Riesling finished with 22 grams of residual sugar, which offers lovely support to its profuse floral and fruit character while engendering only the merest hint of actual sweetness. Lilac, rowan, pistachio extract, and ripe pear inform an enticing nose, then remerge on a polished, subtly creamy, exuberantly sappy palate. It wasnt so many decades ago when this would have counted as a classic Auslese. But whatever you call it, the result is irresistibly perfumed and mouthwatering, even though nowadays very few Riesling bottlings from top estates in the Rhine region represent a balance with comparable levels of residual sugar. This weighs in at 12% alcohol, but I would have guessed 11-11.5% given its levity. I suspect it will be worth following for the better part of two decades. The team here shares my enthusiasm for their 2009 Sandgrub to the point that they say they intend to finish the top Riesling from that site in this manner every year – though I hope this does not become a case of following a formula.”
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Baron Knyphausen | Kiedricher Sandgrub Riesling Auslese
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“Freesia, pear, and blueberry preserves in the nose of the Knyphausen 2009 Kiedricher Sandgrub Riesling Auslese reemerge on a palate that despite confectionary sweetness exhibits striking lift as well alkaline, chalky, and saline mineral suggestions. The overall effect is one of surprising refreshment and impressive sheer persistence. Id like to believe – and rather suspect – that this could continue to perform vigorously for 20 or more years, during the latter portion of which its sense of overt sweetness will begin to give way to greater focus and complexity.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Riesling Trocken
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“The Knyphausen generic 2009 Riesling trocken originates in the Michelmark and Sandgrub Einzellagen. It delivers an admirable and for its modest classificatory status surprisingly measure of saline, crustacean shell-like mineral savor; infectious juiciness of pit fruit and citrus; and piquant nuttiness and fruit pit accents, all of which make for an impressively complete, complex experience and (judging by its ex-cellars price – at bit over seven Euros – which is all that I currently have to go on) an excellent value for enjoying over the next several years.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | “Der Knippie” Riesling Trocken
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“The 2009 Riesling trocken Der Knippie represents the latest and in my recollection most successful in a long line of generic Riesling bottlings from this address at least part of whose contents are intentionally encouraged to undergo malo-lactic transformation, so as to provide a soft and easy-drinking dry Riesling. Generously sappy apple and musk melon fruit informs a subtly creamy palate, while piquant hints of fruit pit and saliva-inducing salinity render the finish refreshing and automatically encouraging of the next sip. Enjoy this over the next 18-24 months.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling
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“The Knyphausen 2009 Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling could not qualify as an Erstes Gewachs because of the youthful age of the estates vines in this site, and while it is legally trocken, that information is omitted from the label, both in order to more closely follow the pattern of Erstes Gewachs labeling and allow with a single label for there being more than 9 grams residual sugar in some future renditions. (The term -Erste Lage- appears on this and certain other Knyphausen labels to indicate that the site in question is classified by the VDP in their top tier.) High-toned distilled pit fruit esters migrate to the palate with considerable tactile impingement of fruit skin and pit.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Erbacher Hohenrain Roter Riesling Auslese
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“I was amazed to discover (or had I simply forgotten?) that the rare vines of Roter Riesling on the Knyphausen estate - part of an experiment that began in Geisenheim with vine material isolated from Rudesheim – are already mature, but Knyphausens 2009 Erbacher Hohenrain Roter Riesling Auslese represents only the third year in which a wine could legally be so-designated, and is also far and away more memorably delicious than this vintages corresponding dry wine. (For another tasting note on Roter Riesling – in that instance from young vines – see my report in this issue on the wines of Fred Prinz.) Attractively brown-spiced peach, pear, and strawberry scent and flavor this lush Auslese, whose creaminess hints at the lactic, though I was informed that it definitely did not undergo any malo-lactic transformation. Its opulent cast arguably renders this wines overt sweetness appropriate, although I would personally have preferred less. I have no idea how it will age but am suspicious that this probably wont hold up well for the time that would be necessary if you wanted its sweetness to significantly back-off.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling
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“The Knyphausen 2009 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling has been allowed to finish with 19.6 grams of residual sugar that beautifully set off the succulent fruitiness with which nearly all of the great wines from this site have historically been endowed, and that whats more holds the alcohol level – which in many recent vintages has become problematically warm and rough with Erbacher Marcobrunn Erste Gewachse, not just from Knyphausen – to an unproblematic 12.5%. Ripe peach, vanilla, heliotrope, decadent lily and litchi inform a seductive nose and succulent, subtly creamy palate. Hints of sugared, roasted almond and caramel – when backed by the wines residual sugar – give it what I would call an old-fashioned Auslese-like sense of richness. (And believe me, 30 or more years ago, this kind of ripeness – even in Marcobrunn – was achieved only in the best vintages. Knyphausen bottled several delicious Marcobrunn Kabinetts during the 1980s for want of fruit that ripened to the requisite must weight for a Spatlese.) Only thanks to the relatively low acidity (in large part due to malo-lactic transformation) of this gentle, expansive, soothingly satisfying Riesling, though, do its under-20 grams of residual sugar result in subtly sweetness, and it is probably this low acidity, too, that renders the wines finish a bit lacking in vigor. I would however highly recommend revisiting it over the 5-7 years, and perhaps it will reveal a potential for longer aging.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Auslese
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“Glazed pineapple and peach preserves are reinforced by the considerable sweetness of Knyphausens 2009 Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Auslese, yet there is a citric brightness and juicy primary fruit persistence that keeps it from being cloying, as well as a striking sense of levity and saline savor such as its counterpart from the Kiedricher Sandgrub also delivered. Suggestions of truffle and fruit pit add intrigue and counterpoint to a performance of textural polish and lip-smacking persistence that ought to reward for at least the next 25 years. (By contrast, a Steinmorgen Auslese vinified in barrique struck me as falling somewhere between awkward and grotesque, and represents an experiment I hope wont be repeated, or at least not in anything like this years form).” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Erbacher Michelmark Riesling EG
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“Faintly warm (at 13.5% alcohol) in finish, this broad, very ripe Riesling strikes me as being best consumed within the next several years. Knyphausens 2009 Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Erstes Gewachs is as he amusingly if somewhat misleadingly puts it -not VDP-trocken,- i.e. not legally trocken and therefore among those dry-tasting Rheingau Erste Gewachse not allowed to be publicly shown at tastings featuring Grosse Gewachse. (If that last sentence is not intelligible to you, dont blame my syntax, and consider yourself lucky: one couldnt make up a situation this silly!) Thanks to its 12.5 grams residual sugar, this didnt exceed 12.5% alcohol and offers a buoyant, refreshing, and vividly Normandy apple cider-like palate impression. What I miss is any intrigue or special interest to justify much ado, and to be honest I have seldom found dry Riesling from this site to be memorable.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Erbacher Siegelsberg Riesling
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“Anybody who happened to have been reading these notes in the order in which I was presented the Knyphausen wines for tasting (though I realize that tasting order cannot be reflected in our on-line format) would have begun to wonder after tasting 13 Rieslings – two of them Erste Gewachse – where the dry Riesling representatives of the estates top sites had gotten to, and their 2009 Erbacher Siegelsberg points the way. On the label is written -Grosse Lage,- an internal designation for those which the estate considers their very best sites. Now, I am not keen on yet another name that can add to the existing confusion of -Grosses Gewachs,- -Erstes Gewachs- and -Erste Lage.- Furthermore, bottling the wines from their three top Einzellagen without either Pradikat or indication of the applicable level of residual sugar (this Siegelsberg happens to be legally trocken) wont please those who seek stylistic clarity from a Rieslings label and who will find this lamentably reminiscent of Alsace. But, what pleases me no end is the determination of the team here to let each of their three ostensibly top single-vineyard representatives finish as nature and good aesthetic judgment would have it. Piquancy of peach pit – as is frequently the case with Steinmorgen Riesling - plays a prominent role, yet there is sufficiently succulent fresh fruit that focuses in a lingering, saline, cyanic, nutty as well as juicy finish. This might shed a bit of its austerity and pick-up nuance with some time in bottle and ought to perform well for at least 4-6 years (though I realize that the team here has much higher expectations of longevity).” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Beerenauslese
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“The Knyphausen 2009 Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Beerenauslese follows in the confectionary mold established by their collection of Auslesen from this vintage, with cherry preserves, peach jam, hazelnut paste, caramel, and marzipan managing to acquire a modicum of juicy refreshment from citrus and some contrast from bitter notes of fruit pit and toasted nut. A combination of sheer impressive richness and persistence certainly compels ones attention, and to this is added a sense of buoyancy such as the corresponding Auslesen also delivered. I can envision this holding up well for several decades, during which it may well offer more balanced satisfaction and certainly less superficial sweetness.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling EG
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“The Knyphausen 2009 Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Erstes Gewachs combines site-typical peachy fruit as well as pithy toasted grain, peach kernel, and nut oil piquancy with a waxy texture and refreshing juiciness. Fascinating and appealing suggestions of pumpkin and rutabaga along with mouthwatering hints of salinity complete an elegant (12.5% alcohol) performance that might well gain in nuance over the next 5-7 years.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Spatlese Gold Capsule
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“Offering a Scheurebe-like exhibition of black currant, pink grapefruit, ripe peach, and nut oils, the Knyphausen 2009 Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Spatlese gold capsule is glossy in texture and rather superficially sweet although arguably that isnt inappropriate to its effusive, gaudy personality. Fundamentally rather soft just as were many of the drier Knyphausen 2009s, I would tentatively plan to enjoy this over the next 7-9 years and am skeptical that it will remain interesting and fresh long enough for its sense of sweetness to significantly diminish.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Kiedricher Sandgrub Riesling Kabinett Feinherb
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“While the corresponding Erbacher Kabinett trocken bottling exhibited a slightly diffuse personality familiar from numerous past renditions of Knyphausen Riesling that grew near to the Rhine shore, his 2009 Kiedricher Riesling Kabinett feinherb is delicious. Scents of gentian and almond segue into a polished, juicy palate suggesting Rainier cherries and tinged with salt and chalk in a satisfyingly lingering finish. With its mere hint of sweetness not barring one from calling this wine -dry,- yet sufficient to heighten its fruit and floral notes as well as help keep it buoyant (at 11.5% alcohol), I would expect this to serve well for at least 4-6 year.” » schließen
Baron Knyphausen | Kiedricher Sandgrub Riesling Spatlese
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“A Knyphausen 2006 Kiedricher Sandgrub Riesling Spatlese delivers heady scents of lilac and very ripe pear and peach; offers soothingly creamy, mouth-filling satisfaction; and finishes with a watercolor-like, slightly blurred yet delicate sense of fruits and flowers, as well as with considerable overt sweetness. It will probably remain fresh for at least a dozen years, but I suspect it wont have the stamina to shed its sense of sweetness, and would be just as well enjoyed short-term.” » schließen